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Aileen Spaeth & Larry Burrow - Romancing in Nome 
 

"I meet Aileen" 

by Larry Burrow

(excerpt)

 

"One day in the latter part of November or first part of December 1932 while on duty at the radio station at Nome, Mrs. Woods the wife of the Operator in Charge called my attention to a telegram that we had just received. It was a wire to the Nome school board saying a new school teacher would be arriving soon. Mrs. Wood said, 'now there is a nice girl for you.' Asked her how she knew. Mrs. Wood said she knew her family in Ketchikan. Mrs. Wood was raised at Craig, Alaska, the daughter of a missionary. Craig was only about a hundred miles from Ketchikan and all the mail was routed to and from Craig through Ketchikan.


"I didn't give it any more thought, just that another married woman was trying a little match making. A few days later Mrs. Wood said the new teacher was on the way and that her name was Aileen Spaeth. My reply was, 'So what?' I should have known better, you can't fight city hall.


"On New Year's Eve one of the big dances of the year is held. That is where I first saw Aileen. Like any new face in town and especially a school marm, they are much sought after. I think the ratio of men to women (unmarried) was about 10 to 1 which included the older high school girls. School teachers and nurses if single when they arrived, lasted about one year before they were married. The mortality was high. Had a dance with her. She don't remember it, but I do. Even know the dress she was wearing was a black velvet one.


"During the winter months we had a indoor baseball league which consisted of four men's teams plus a married women's team and a single girl's team. We played our games in a big hall dating from the gold rush days. It was known as the Eagles Hall. Had balcony, box seats plus a big stage. It took four big coal stoves to heat it, one stove in each corner. I was captain of the Federal team, all players were in the Coast Guard, Alaska Reindeer Service, Marshal's Office, Alaska Road Commission and Weather Bureau. One day I was approached by a couple of the girls from the single girls' ball team and asked if I would coach them a little. Seems the married women were beating them all the time. Also they complained that their coach was a married man and his wife was a player and believed pressure was being brought to bear on his coaching by his wife. So I consented to help them out. At the practice was where I met Aileen for the second time. We got acquainted at the practice games which led to dates. Incidentally the girls won the rest of their games with the married women. The biggest dance of the year is 'Washington's Birthday' and held at the Masonic temple. I had been initiated into the Masons the year before so Aileen was my guest. From then on things were pretty much on a going steady basis."

 


Aileen meets Larry

(first mention of Larry in her weekly letters home)

 

"There was a local talent follies production last night & I honestly think it was about the best thing of the type I ever saw. The banker's wife directed it & the children & girls who took part sang & danced marvelously well. The movie folks also put on a skit that was a good laugh, & I enjoyed the whole program a lot. I went with our baseball coach, a young fellow who works in the Signal Corps. He seems like an awfully nice kid so I don't mind his showing an interest in me, but I suspect I'm about 5 years older than he. His name is Larry Burro, & on the back of the sweatshirt that he wears at baseball, he has a picture of a burro's head."

Aileen Spaeth, letter to mother, Lucy Spaeth, in Ketchikan, February 12, 1933


Hollywood comes to Nome

 

The MGM movie, "Eskimo," which won the first Academy Award for film editing, was filmed in the Nome-Teller area during the winter of 1932-33.  The film was based on the writings of Danish explorer/writer Peter Freuchen, who served as technical advisor and played the part of a sea captain in the movie. (Freuchen devoted two chapters of his autobiography, Vagrant Viking, to the making of "Eskimo.")

 

Together with fellow teacher, Mona McCausland, Aileen hosted Freuchen for dinner in her room at Nome's Pioneer Igloo Hotel:

"Mona & I entertained together at dinner tonight - or rather she furnished dinner & served it in my rooms. She has only one room, & wanted to invite Mrs. Yager, our landlady and her husband, so I offered to go in with her. She insisted on providing the dinner herself, tho, and it was a very good one. We had another unexpected guest, too, and one who was very interesting. There is a motion picture company at Teller now filming a play called "The Eskimo" and our guest was the author, Peter Freuchen, Arctic explorer & author, of Denmark. He's way over 6 ft. tall, I think, at least he seemed to about fill my little room when he stood up, has regular "House of David" whiskers & long hair, and an artificial leg - probably had his own leg frozen. He has lived in Greenland & explored around Hudson's Bay & Baffin Land for years - has been to the Magnetic Pole - so you can imagine how he interested us, to say nothing of his picturesque appearance & manners. He entranced both of us by kissing our hands when he was introduced - an act neither of us had experienced before.

 

"The whole movie company is going to move down here as soon as the planes can fly again - would have started today, in fact, if it hadn't been for the storm. This Mr. Freuchen & two others came yesterday, & all that Mrs. Yager has room for will stay here at the Igloo. I guess there'll be some high old times here for a while, then. They are going to build a whole village of snow igloos about a mile from town, for the films. They'd have finished up long ago if there'd been more snow, but I guess we'd more here than at Teller, so that's why they're coming here."

Aileen Spaeth, letter to Mom, January 29, 1933


On the "Eskimo" movie set - Nome, 1933
 
(Click images to enlarge)

 

Aileen Spaeth

Aileen Spaeth & Florence Kinney

"Mona & I hiked out to the movie location where they've built an igloo village. I was quite the belle of Nome, in borrowed parka, mukluks & mittens. The mukluks were my landlady's, the mittens, some squirrel skin ones of Mona's, & the parka belongs to the M.G.M. & is worn by a Chinese girl who has the room next to mine now. It was a beauty - squirrel skin with all kinds of fine banding & ornamentation. Mona took a picture of me in it in front of one of the igloos, & I'm hoping it'll be good."

Aileen Spaeth, letter to Mom, February 6, 1933

Larry Burrow & Chinook

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


MGM Dance Party - Nome, February 17, 1933 
 
"Friday evening the M.G.M. people had a dance to which all the "elite" of the town were invited, & I went with Larry. They have the use of a log cabin that used to be a very exclusive club, and it is a nice place for such parties - great big fireplace, & decorated with lots of old steins - some of the old members carved their names on the walls. It was a very enjoyable dance."

Aileen Spaeth, letter to Mom, February 19, 1933

 

(Click images to enlarge)

Larry Burrow, standing, 2nd from left

 

Peter Freuchen, center, with beard


Movie company abandons further filming for lack of snow

 

"You've certainly been having more than your share of snow this year - & up here folks are complaining because there isn't enough, especially the movie folks. They're getting sick of sitting around waiting for winter. Last week was perfect weather as far as sun was concerned, but so warm their igloos melted & water stood on the ice so they couldn't even get ice-scenes."

Aileen Spaeth, letter to Mom, February 12, 1933

"This morning we went out on the ice to watch them taking pictures, but didn't see much. They've finally given up getting any snow, so they're starting home this week, i.e. the first load of them will start to Fairbanks Tuesday. Some of the party are going north again to get some pictures of polar bears, & the rest will go back to Hollywood where they will have to manufacture the snow scenes. Lulu, the Chinese girl will be among the first to leave, & I've told her to look you folks up if it is convenient to do so when they go thru Ketchikan. Her full name is Lulu Wong Ying & she's a sister of Anna Mae Wong. You'll probably hear from her about the 15th or 16th of March, as they are supposed to leave Seward on the 12th. She's a very friendly girl & is one of the party who seems to be sorry to have to leave. I think the fact of the matter is, that she's welcomed here as a movie star, & is much more important than she is in Hollywood. It was her parka that I wore in the snapshot I sent you."

Aileen Spaeth, letter to Mom, February 26, 1933

(Click images to enlarge)

Mona McCausland,

Aileen Spaeth and

Lulu Wong Ying

Lulu Wong Ying

 

 

 

 


"not going to get hooked," says Larry 

  

"Nope, I'm not going to get hooked by any school-marm, not if I can help it, but, you never can tell, these women have their ways. And the smaller they are the more their ways. Hi! Am I right? Anyway theres no girl in this town I would want to marry. Not that they are not nice girls, because most of em are fine, but she hasn't come along yet. Eleine, thats the school teachers name is older than Me, but then she likes so many things I do and vice versa. She likes to play ball, go hunting, skiing etc. Its just that we have a good time together. Well its getting late now and I am going to take a bath so good nite to you and Dad."

Larry Burrow, letter to stepmother, Lila Burrow, in Seattle, May 6, 1933


Larry gets a car

excerpt from "I meet Aileen" by Larry Burrow

 

"During the early spring while there is still plenty snow, but not quite so cold, we could go skiing. Or walk out on the ice and watch the Eskimo women fishing through the ice. Anyway we had a lot of fun. After the breakup and school lets out for the summer most of the single women teachers went outside (to the States. Alaska was still a territory). However that year Aileen and three other teachers decided to stay at Nome. Which suited me fine. All the teachers had boy friends. I had picked up an Overland 6 Coupe. One of the few cars in town. So we had transportation to get out of town to the gold diggings, summer homes and fishing spots.

 

"One morning I woke up about 3 am smelling smoke. I had bachelor quarters in the radio station and parked my car behind my bedroom window. I looked out and could see smoke coming from it. Was able to put it out. Evidently a match had gotten between the seat and the back and had been smoldering for some time. By this time a couple other men had seen me putting the fire out. They also knew that Aileen had been out to a party or dance that evening. I always had to make the 1 am weather schedule so I never did get to bed until after 1. Anyway one of the men (one of the other radio operators) spread the word that the reason the car caught fire was the torrid necking that was going on in that car. I never did live it down."

 

 

Larry's 1928 Overland 6, and dog "Shep" on running board, Nome, 1933.

 


 Aileen gets first ride in Larry's car & Larry accepts baseball trophy

 

"Last Sunday shortly after I finished my letter, Larry drove up in his car, having just got it out of the garage. He hadn't driven a gearshift before, so he was glad to let me take the wheel for our first ride - out to the airport, about 1 1/2  miles from town. The seat was so far from the pedals that I had a hard time reaching, and the next day my arms were lame from holding myself up to the wheel. The only road open yet is out to Little Creek, about 3 or 4 miles away, and I guess Larry has made good use of it because he has almost 100 miles rolled up on his speedometer already. 

 

"Wednesday night there was a dance for all the baseball players & their friends, and the trophies were awarded to the winning teams. Our team got a cup standing about 5 inches high, including the pedestal. We don't know what to do with it because we have no headquarters, but Florence, who was our captain, has it at present. She wasn't able to be at the dance so, Larry, as our coach, had to receive the cup when it was presented. Naturally he got lots of cheers & applause as the representative of the single girls, and was not a little embarrassed."

Aileen Spaeth, letter to mother, May 14, 1933


First ships of year break through ice to Nome

 

"Such excitement as there has been in town the last couple of days! The "Victoria" got in yesterday afternoon, and the Coast Guard flagship "Northland" came sometime in the night. It & another boat have been held up by ice for about a week, and then when the "Vic" came along she came right thru without a hitch. It was beautiful weather, & we watched her from the time her smoke was visible until she dropped anchor. The ice had been clear out of sight here for a long time, but now a lot of it is drifting around again.

 

"The stores all have their green stuff out, and I bought a cucumber & some oranges to start with. I have boiled a piece of reindeer meat & tomorrow I guess I'll get some carrots, & cabbage, etc. & have some stew. I didn't get to do much today because I was out in the country. Yesterday I tried some baking again, but am afraid I'll have to give up. I tried Ruth Lokken's recipe for date cakes, but altho I baked them for hours the bottom refused to cook, & the top got scorched.

 

"P.S. Tuesday evening . . .

 

"Larry has more fresh stuff than he can use, on his order so today he brought me some of it - lettuce, celery, bananas, oranges, tomatoes & cherries. With the boiled dinner I had, I've certainly been gorging myself on such things. You simply can't imagine how good they all taste. He is working on one of the puzzles while he waits for me to finish this."

Aileen Spaeth, letter to Mom, June 12, 1933


Ships Victoria & Northland

(Click images to enlarge)

SS Victoria

USCGC Northland

Launched as the Cunard Line's Parthia at Dumbarton, Scotland in 1870, Victoria was originally designed for the emigrant trade between Ireland and the United States. Her hull was constructed of hand wrought, inch thick, iron plates, which later proved superior in ice-breaking capability during her many years in the Alaska trade.

 

 

 

 

"Although not a true icebreaker, the Northland, launched in 1927, was designed to replace the Bear and operate in Alaskan waters and was therefore a forerunner of today's icebreakers.  Her hull, extensively welded instead of riveted--a novel feature in 1926, was designed to withstand 100 psi, permitting operations in light ice conditions.  She was rigged with two masts for auxiliary power in the event of damage to her single propeller.  The masts were removed in 1936."

 

US Coast Guard Historic Photo Gallery, Icebreakers

 


Aileen squirms on marriage prospects

 

"There is a current rumor that the "Vic" is going thru the inside passage this trip, but I didn't know it until we'd started ashore yesterday. If she does I'm sure the girls will try to look you up, especially Florence, and by then you will have met all my fellow teachers except Jean. I don't know what kind of reports they'll give you about Larry and me, but whatever they are, don't let it bother you. Since school is out it seems as tho we've been together a great deal, and I know that to some folks in town we're just as good as engaged. But as far as we're concerned, there is no more prospect of that than there was the first week we knew each other. If there were I'd tell you long before I told the people in Nome."

Aileen Spaeth, letter to Mom, June 18, 1933


Summer in Nome - 1933

Photo captions by Aileen Spaeth

 
(Click images to enlarge)

 

“I took this about 9 o’clock one evening late in June. It was the last time the ice touched shore at Nome that summer. On the beach right in front of the Igloo.”

 

“Larry frightened this ptarmigan hen one night and almost stepped on the eggs. We went back later and took these pictures.”

 

“The eggs in the same nest. They are easier to see than the hen is. Taken on Anvil Mt. just a ways above the road, about the 3rd week in June.”

 

“Jean washing dishes. Aileen fishing. Our first picnic at Dexter on June 21st.

 

“Aileen & Larry roasting wieners for dinner. At our special spot out at Dexter."

 

“Same evening.”

 

“The Nohalico took us to Safety and brought us back – all except my lunch.”

 

“They even went in swimming that day at Safety.”

 

 

“You had to put your head in the phonograph to hear it, the engine made so much noise.”

"Yesterday we went on a boat trip on the "Nohalico", Polet's new tug-boat that came in on the "Derblay" a month ago. About 25 of us were in the party, but we had several groups - Jean, Larry, Alvin Polet & I & a couple of other girls ate together. We were going to go to Sledge Island, which is about the only place near Nome that can't be reached by land, but it was foggy over that way so we went to Safety instead. It was a beautiful day, almost too warm and we had a dandy time, except that I got seasick on the way home. It was a 2 1/2 hours ride & I stuck it out until the last half-hour, and the boat was rolling all the time. Today I look terribly embarrassed, because my face is pretty red, especially my nose, from sunburn. I know there are quite a few others in the same fix, but anyway we weren't bothered by mosquitos."

Aileen Spaeth, letter to Mom, July 17, 1933

 

“Already to go after the fish. Our ensembles must have scared them because no fish were forthcoming.”

 

"Looks a little like Robinson Crusoe. The first day I found it warm enough to go without my jacket.”

 

 

“A good pose but what kind of a shot was it? (At our last picnic with Larry.)”

 

 

 

 

 


Aileen says Yes

 

On August 6, Larry was transferred to a one-man radio station at Candle, a small village northeast of Nome near Kotzebue Sound. From there he wired his proposal of marriage to Aileen in Nome, on August 27. She wired back her acceptance, quit her teaching job, and, a week later, on September 3, flew to Candle where they were married that evening. 

 


Aileen tells Mom

 

"I'm awfully glad I've already told you how interested I am in Larry, because what I have to say now won't be such a shock to you. His having to go to Candle has changed our plans a great deal, and after three weeks separation we know just what to do. By the time you get this letter I'll be in Candle and you will have to address my mail to Mrs. Larry Burrow. You probably wonder why the rush, but if you can form any idea of what kind of place Candle would be I think you'll understand - not more than 20 white people there, probably, so it would be mighty lonely for a young fellow who wants to live decently. As for myself - Larry has asked me to come and I want to - that's all that matters. I thought I should stay here at least long enough to pay off my debts, but that seems to be a secondary consideration to him. He has plenty of money to take care of it and buy all the furnishings we'll need, and still have some left.

 

"All this has happened in the last 2 days and I've been so excited I hardly know what I'm doing. I hadn't had any letter from him since he left here, and then Sunday I got a wire asking if I'd come on the next plane. We made all our arrangements by wire, with the kind help of the new chief here, and nobody else knew about it until I had decided to go. This man is the one Larry replaced at Candle so his wife is able to tell me what I need to take for the house. I handed my resignation to the school board this morning and the member I talked to didn't seem at all surprised to get it.

 

"There are a lot of things I have to think of and do in the next few days, and as soon as I can organize my brains a little better I'll add something to this letter."

Aileen Spaeth, letter to Mom, August 29, 1933


Bridal shower for Aileen - September 1, 1933

 

"Guess I didn't tell you that Florence (last year's 7th & 8th grade teacher) was in Nome last week on her way to Kotsebue where she is going to teach this year. She stayed with Jean & they gave a shower for me Friday evening & tried to surprise me by pretending Jean was entertaining for Florence. Shirlie was in on it, too, and it was her job to keep me from getting there too early. There were 10 ladies there & they hemmed dish towels & made two aprons for me during the evening. There were packages concealed in various places about the house and I had to find them, with the aid of some appropriate jingles and whatever hints I could get from the others. The jingles all had allusions to certain things Larry & I had done together, such as fishing, baseball, hunting etc., and were very clever. Most of the gifts were very useful and included some pillow-slips, towels, a tea set, a cotton blanket, lunch cloth, housedress, a lovely wool comforter covered with green rayon-taffeta on one side and orchid on the other, and a big basket that came from Noonivak Island, I think. It was from Gore's and is practically round, & large enough to use for a clothes hamper."

Aileen Spaeth, letter to Mom, September 7, 1933


The "appropriate jingles"

(Click images to enlarge)

 

   
  
  


Aileen flies to Candle to get married, September 3, 1933

 

Sendoff at Nome airport

 

(Click images to enlarge)

 

Aileen Spaeth

Aileen Spaeth & Jean Kellett

 


Larry tells Dad

 

"Better get set, and hang on for a surprise. "I'm married". Yep, you are a Father in Law, for the first time, how does it feel? If you feel like I do it's Great. I suppose you wonder who the unlucky girl is that married me. I think I mentioned her name in a letter last spring, but I'm not sure. Anyway I suppose you want to hear more about her. Her name is Aileen, (Was, "Aileen Spaeth") her home is, or was, at Ketchikan Alaska. About as tall as Lila, curly brown hair, age 29 weight 109, likes to go hunting and fishing and likes to go camping, would like to put on trousers and tramp all over the hills and does when we get the chance. Is a U of W graduate, was teaching school, but resigned to become Mrs Larry Burrow, and at present taking good care of me. Incidently, I think I'm going to get fat, because Pop, she is a good cook. Last nite had for supper potatoes and gravy, Fried young wild Duck, Blue-berry shortcake, and other things. We are going out this evening and try to get some Ptarmigan. Also pick some more blueberries and cranberries. The cranberries are about the size of currants, and blueberries same size a huckelberry is.


"We were married here, in Candle four days ago Sept 3 by the U.S. Commissioner after she had flown from Nome to marry me. As Candle is practically on the Arctic Circle we can say we were married on the Circle. Have been so busy getting straightened out ready for the winter havn't had much chance to write. The last boat will be at Keewalik tomorrow, they have to freight all the supplies up in flat bottomed scows and pull em over shallows etc to get up river to Candle. Keewalik is at the mouth of the Keewalik River, and Candle is about ten miles up river. Our next boat will be next July. Don't know whether we will have airplane mail service this year or not from Nome. Heretofore it has been via dog team. But first class mail will be by plane anyway."

Larry Burrow, letter to father, September 7, 1933


(Click image to enlarge)

email: charlieburrow@gmail.com